9 of the Best Things to Eat and Drink in (and around) Vienna

*Savory bone marrow from Zu den 3 Hacken*

I’ve never been much for sweets, but in Vienna, I eat cakes and tarts like I’m some fat, spoiled relative of the Habsburgs (not Sisi, of course, who was famously svelte or emaciated, depending on your perspective—although I have indulged in her own favorite dessert, the violet sorbet, complete with a splash of champagne, and it gave me a strange sense of camaraderie with the long-dead empress). I make late-night visits to my favorite würstelstand. I devour wiener schnitzels twice the size of my head, down entire plates of steak tartare, and scrape out heaping spoonsful of creamy bone marrow from impossibly thick shanks.

Last summer, I worked my way through a diverse array of food stalls outside Rathausplatz, and over the holidays, I did the same thing across the city’s various Christmas markets. (I also sampled my fair share of Christmas punches.) I love perusing the stalls of the Naschmarkt or doing flights of beers at my favorite little craft brewery. I’ll also never miss a chance to enjoy all the great cuisine brought in from various diasporas: Indian, Chinese, Korean, Peruvian, Georgian, you name it.

*A stuffed beer pretzel from Stöckl im Park*

What I’m saying is that Vienna is a gastronomic paradise—and every time I visit (which is fairly often), I have a pretty hefty food and beverage agenda to work through. Even on my most recent trip to Austria’s capital—a whirlwind visit to attend this year’s Oper Klosterneuburg, something that is quickly becoming an annual tradition—I managed to hit all nine of my favorite Viennese food groups.

These, of course, are no ordinary food groups—but any time I’m in Vienna, I always make sure to indulge in a hefty helping of the following culinary essentials:

(Bonus: at the end of this post, I’ve included a helpful Google Maps link with some highlights of my personal food recommendations—for the next time you’re heading to Vienna.)

1. Breaded Meats

*Enjoying a Wiener Schnitzel on a sunny summer day in Naschmarkt*

My first trip to Vienna was in January 2008. I was a 20-year-old student wandering around Europe on my winter holiday between semesters abroad in Morocco and Jordan, and I’d arrived in Vienna after a short stop in Prague.

That first evening, I rode the subway from my hotel—near Wien Hauptbahnhof (Vienna’s Central Train Station)—to Stephansplatz, and then made my way to Griechenbeisl, one of the oldest restaurants in Europe. I descended the stairs and was seated in a warm, cozy dining room filled with conversation and laughter. I ordered a wiener schnitzel and a beer, followed by an apfelstrudel, and I was in heaven. The food, the atmosphere… everything felt so perfect.

I’ve had my fair share of wiener schnitzels over the years—at the Naschmarkt, at Stöckl im Park (a great restaurant and microbrewery next to the Belvedere), and at various other spots around town, and I must say it’s hard to have a bad one. They’re usually fantastic. (If they’re done properly, there should large pockets of air between the breading and the meat.)

But they’re also far from the only breaded meat dishes you can enjoy in Vienna, and I’d encourage visitors to branch out from the wiener schnitzel and experience all the alternatives on offer. For example, Viennese Cordon Bleu—with veal or pork, not chicken (looking judgmentally at you, America)—is absolutely divine (try the one at Stöckl im Park), and Viennese Fried Chicken is absolutely to die for (especially the version you’ll find at Lugeck).

2. Beef Tartare

I have a well-established love for raw ground beef or lamb: one of my all-time favorite Levantine dishes is kibbeh nayyeh, which I enjoy atop Arabic bread, slathered with toum (garlic sauce).

The European version of this, of course, is beef tartare, or steak tartare—and while it can be enjoyed pretty much anywhere across the continent, I always seem to find myself tucking into it in Vienna.

I’ve tried to find some kind of explanation for why it’s so popular in Austria’s capital—it seems to have a ubiquitous presence on restaurant menus throughout the city—but it appears that it’s simply an inexplicable local trend.

In any case, it’s a trend I’m especially fond of, and as long as the restaurant is at least modestly reputable, I’ll happily tuck into a plate of beef tartare to kick off my meal. Lugeck, in particular, does a great beef tartare, though they’re far from the only one.

3. Offal and Obscure Animal Parts

I’ve said it before on this blog: I feel like there’s something spiritually satisfying about eating offal—about devouring all parts of our animal sacrifices.

In Vienna, just as anywhere in the world, I am happy to indulge in as many obscure animal parts as I can get my hands on. The heftiest, deepest canals of bone marrow I’ve ever dug into were at Zu den 3 Hacken, a small restaurant situated on a quiet corner between Stadtpark and Stephansplatz.

But nothing can quite compare to a dinner I had last summer in a small village about an hour southeast of Vienna. In the unassuming town of Purbach am Neusiedlersee (population just under 3,000), you’ll find Gut Purbach, a gorgeous little restaurant headed up by one of Austria’s top chefs, Max Stiegl.

Gut Purbach places considerable emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients, prepared with the craftsmanship of French gastronomy. There is also a special focus on cooking with offal, and while enjoying my meal at Gut Purbach, I dined on course after course of inventive, hearty dishes that featured every conceivable part of an animal.

There was a bright, refreshing, summery take on fried brain—served atop a delicate, paper-thin slice of aspic. There was a stew that combined tripe, lungs, heart, beans, and octopus with colorful hints of lemongrass. There was a cut of roast cheek of pork served with a rich, sumptuous sauce. There was even a vegetable course that put beetroot front and center, and despite beetroot being my least-favorite food ever, I devoured it with utter delight. A restaurant that can transform offal into artistry and make me enjoy beetroot is well worth anyone’s time (unless, of course, you’re a vegetarian).

4. Sausages and Street Foods

*Last Christmas, I surprised my parents with a long weekend in Vienna to visit the city’s holiday markets. The first place I took them was my favorite würstelstand*

No trip to Vienna is complete without a visit to at least one würstelstand—and at pretty much every time of year, you’ll find a variety of open-air street food offerings (especially out in front of Rathausplatz). It’s a great city to just wander about and sample everything in sight.

My go-to würstelstand is Würstelstand zum Hohen Markt, and I have two go-to orders: the first is a Käsekrainer hotdog mit senf. Käsekrainer is a sausage filled with cheese, and the entire thing is placed inside the tastiest, freshest baguette (soft and pillowy on the inside and crispy on the outside, the way the bread gods intended), complete with a generous (but not overwhelming) slather of mustard (or whatever condiments you prefer).

My other favorite order is the Käseleberkäse—a thick slice of Austrian meatloaf (like a thick bologna) topped with cheese and placed inside a crispy bread roll.

But it’s not just sausage and leberkäse that can be enjoyed in the streets of Vienna: at any time of year, you’re all but guaranteed to find local festivals and markets offering up a huge selection of street foods. In the summer, head to Rathausplatz for the annual film festival. Films are typically screened in the evenings, but all day long you can tuck into a huge selection of food stalls. Last summer, I spent an entire afternoon working my way through stall after stall, sampling highlights of Austrian, Vietnamese, Japanese, and various other diverse cuisines—complete with cocktails and beers to complement each dish.

And in the winter, of course, Vienna comes to life with numerous Christmas markets. This past Christmas, I took my parents on a surprise trip to Vienna for the holidays (they had been visiting me in Jordan, and with plans to head to Southeast Asia at the New Year, they never saw it coming—not until we were standing in line to check in for the flight). We visited five different Christmas markets during our short stay, and each of them had tantalizing selections of holiday treats.

One of my favorite holiday snacks is none other than maroni, or roasted chestnuts—and you’ll find no shortage of these at Vienna’s Christmas markets, as well as all the sausages and holiday sweets you can get your hands on.

Even if you can’t find a seasonal market or food festival to attend, Vienna’s Naschmarkt is open year-round, and is a real treat for the culinarily curious.

5. Fine Dining

*Enjoying my aperitif of Austrian sparkling wine at Steirereck*

For me, life and travel—and food—are all about balance. As much as I love street food, I also love to indulge in a bit of haute cuisine. And let me tell you: Vienna does fine dining with extraordinary aplomb.

When I was back in Vienna just a couple of weeks ago (attending this year’s Oper Klosterneuburg—something that’s quickly becoming an annual tradition of mine), I managed to swing a lunch reservation at Steirereck. I’d been dreaming of this place for years, but could never plan far enough in advance to snag a reservation. (This time, I booked two months ahead.) Located in the heart of Stadtpark (just a short walk from my hotel), Steirereck offers up what is inarguably the best dining experience in Austria (and that’s not easy for me to declare—especially after my wonderful visit to Gut Purbach last summer). It’s also currently ranked among the top 20 restaurants in the world, with two Michelin stars under its belt.

The building itself is an architectural delight—mirrored, angular walls reflect back the surrounding greenery, creating an ambiance that is both contemporary and harmonious with its surroundings. In the warmth of the summer, the lower windows are opened up, offering a delightfully breezy atmosphere, and an even greater sense of connectedness to the surrounding environment.

Instead of one large dining room, tables are assorted along intimate corridors—like fingers extending outward from the palm of a hand. This setup offers more intimacy and a greater sense of personalized service and care.

It was a meal that will live in my memory for months—years—to come. The six-course tasting menu, complete with some of the best wine pairings I’ve ever enjoyed, was spectacularly well-considered and brilliantly executed. Everything was cooked to perfection, with such exemplary and unexpected flavor combinations, such gorgeous textural intrigue and exquisite mouthfeel, and such utter attention to detail. And the bread and cheese trolleys were phenomenal: I tucked into a dizzying array of freshly baked breads (the spicy chorizo bread was particularly outstanding) and some of the most distinctive and delicious cheeses I’ve ever tasted.

While every dish was exquisite, a few stand out in my mind: the charcoal grilled and baked eggplant was without a doubt the most phenomenal take on eggplant I’ve ever tasted (and I live in the Middle East, so that’s saying a great deal). The pike with lentil-stuffed courgette flowers was utterly divine, both in flavor and texture: I’ve never indulged in such perfectly grilled fish, with the most delicate, crispy skin atop buttery, melt-in-your-mouth flesh. And the pigeon with limquat, fennel, and gooseberries was an absolute revelation, with such a bright medley of flavors.

Look, I’ve had plenty of expensive meals—both Michelin-starred and otherwise—that weren’t worth the price tag. But Steirereck, I’m happy to report, is worth every penny. I’m already eager to plan my return.

6. Cakes and Sweets

*Christmas cookies, courtesy of my favorite hotel in Vienna, Hotel Am Parkring*

As I mentioned above, I don’t really have much of a sweet tooth, and will gladly take something salty or savory over sweet any day.

But Vienna has some kind of effect on me that’s altogether uncharacteristic: whenever I’m there, I suddenly crave cakes and tarts and sorbets and cookies.

I’ll never leave Vienna without indulging in Sachertorte (and, usually, without grabbing an entire cake to take back home). I’m always happy to indulge in an apfelstrudel or some kaiserschmarrn. And if I walk past a particularly lovely-looking bakery, I’ll eagerly pop in and grab a few appealing-looking bites.

And if you already have a hefty sweet tooth, I promise you—Vienna will feel like a big, creamy slice of heaven.

7. Breakfast

*The killer eggs benedict served at my favorite Vienna breakfast spot, Mae Aurel*

There are some cities where I wouldn’t dream of settling for a hotel breakfast buffet—wouldn’t dare miss the opportunity to try all the local cafés and breakfast spots—and Vienna is one of them. (To be fair, I feel this way about most place: unless the hotel is renowned for its breakfast spread, I’d rather venture out and about for my morning meal. One notable exception was Tbilisi, Georgia, simply because the city just doesn’t have a culture that embraces breakfast—or mornings, for that matter.)

I’ve tried plenty of Vienna’s famous cafés—like Café Landtmann and Kaffe Alt Wien—but I think my all-time favorite breakfast spot is Mae Aurel, which serves up mouthwatering breakfast favorites (as I’ve made abundantly clear in this blog, I love a good eggs benedict, and Mae Aurel does a truly phenomenal one) and seriously great coffee in a bright, airy ambiance that’s perfect for starting the day.

And speaking of coffee…

8. Coffee

*Coffee and a croissant at Café Landtmann*

Vienna’s quite well known for its wonderful cafés, and for good reason: this is a city that does coffee very well. Whether it’s a cappuccino (or two) with breakfast, a Viennese Melange with a slice of cake, or an after-dinner espresso, I will never turn down a cup of coffee in Austria’s caffeinated capital.

I honestly don’t think I’ve had a bad cup of coffee in Vienna.

And while we’re on the subject of beverages…

9. Beer, Wine, Cocktails & Punches

*Afternoon cocktails are a must in Vienna*

I’m not a huge drinker—in my normal, day-to-day life I might have two to three drinks a month—but when I’m traveling, I love to indulge in a few cocktails and local brews. And Vienna has so much to offer on that front.

Of course, the most famous Viennese brewery is none other than Ottakringer, and they offer a huge array of brews worth sampling (you can also visit their factory if you’re so inclined). I’m personally quite partial to the Ottakringer Radler, because I love nice citrusy beers.

But there are also some great microbreweries in town: my personal favorite is Stöckl im Park, where I never miss a chance to enjoy a flight of beers.

*Stöckl im Park is one of my favorite spots in Vienna—especially in the summer, when you can enjoy the outdoor terrace*

Of course, Austria is also home to some of my favorite cocktails, from the Kaiserspritzer to the Hugo Spritz. And while the Aperol Spritz technically originated in Northern Italy, I’ve come to associate it with Vienna so much that I start craving one the minute I touch down.

And who could forget all the different punches and beverages on offer at Vienna’s Christmas markets? The variety is absolutely astounding, and there’s simply no way to try them all (unless you have a very high alcohol tolerance—which I do not). My personal favorite was the apfelstrudel punsch, but there are variations in every flavor imaginable (and unless you opt for the alcohol-free kinderpunsch, these punches really do pack a punch). If you prefer a more traditional wintry classic, of course, there’s always glühwein (but I make a pretty great mulled wine at home, so I tend to branch out at the Christmas markets).

*A punch stand at the Schönbrunn Palace Christmas Market*

And when I’m in Klosterneuburg each summer for the Oper Klosterneuburg (an annual open-air opera that takes place at the Klosterneuburg Monastery, which I’ll be writing more about very soon), I always grab a glass of Klostersekt before the show (and sometimes during intermission, too). The monastery, as luck would have it, is home to the oldest wine estate in Austria, and its sparkling wine is a delightful classic.

*A glass of Klostersekt before this year’s showing of Don Carlo*

Want more food and drink recommendations in Vienna? I’ve got you covered:

Look, I know this blog is titled, ‘Don’t Follow Me,’ but I’m also not trying to act like the places I visit are well-kept secrets. I would never deny you the pleasure of enjoying Vienna’s culinary excellence, so I’ve created a folder on Google Maps that you can find here. Guten appetit!