Music, Art, Food: How I Spent a Lightning-fast Weekend in Oslo, Norway

Oslo, Norway, November 2023

It started with an impulsively purchased concert ticket.

This is where I should probably provide a little background: my all-time favorite singer is Norway’s Maria Mena. I’ve been listening to her for 20 years, ever since her single, You’re the Only One, charted in the US back when I was in high school. It was the first and last song of hers to make waves in the States, but I continued to follow her career closely—even obsessively. As a lyricist, she is phenomenal, and I always felt a huge connection to her work. Every album she’s released has showcased so much personal growth and development—and because her music is so deeply autobiographical, listening to this evolution almost feels like sitting in the passenger’s seat as a good friend navigates life’s ups and downs.

Her album Growing Pains, for example, is probably the best break-up (divorce) album ever, demonstrating the kind of emotional maturity and self-reflection that you’ll never find in something like Olivia Rodrigo’s Sour (although, don’t get me wrong: I love that album, too—just not in the same way).

Maria Mena’s latest album, And Then Came You, is her best yet (how does she keep getting better and better?), and the connection I feel to this album—and the felicitous moment at which it came into my life—is profound.

So when she announced, via social media, that she would be touring her new album across Norway, I jumped at the opportunity to see her live.

Maria Mena, performing in Moss, Norway, November 2023

First, I looked into buying tickets to her show in Oslo, but they were already close to being sold out—and if I’m going to fly all the way from Jordan to Norway for a concert—in November, no less—I’m not settling for the nosebleeds. Instead, I booked a front-and-center seat at her show the following night in Moss, a small town just a short distance south of the capital.

It was only after this spontaneous purchase that I started planning out my trip.

I managed to find relatively cheap RyanAir tickets that routed me through Bergamo, Italy—and allowed me to tack on a couple nights in Milan at the end of my trip.

The whole trip was relatively haphazard, if I’m being honest, with very little research or planning involved—which is how I ended up somewhat surprised by the fact that my plane landed in Sandefjord, about an hour and a half south of Oslo, on the afternoon of November 16. (And to think, I had felt so proactive by booking my airport transfer ticket in advance—only to quickly realize that, whoops, wrong airport.)

Definitely not Oslo (but incredibly cute and charming nonetheless!)

This, of course, required only a quick recalibration, and I managed to arrive in Oslo just after sunset (which, at that time of year, is quite early in the evening).

For the first two nights of my visit, I stayed at Oslo’s inimitable Bristol Hotel—an impossibly charming destination that exudes classical luxury and elegance at every turn. By the time I checked in, I was terribly hungry (I hadn’t eaten a thing all day), so I threw my things down in my room, freshened up, and hopped over to Katla for dinner.

Katla’s menu is truly one-of-a-kind: blending Asian and Latin American influences with the freshest Nordic ingredients, the restaurant is among the trendiest little dining spots in Norway’s capital. I started with a plate of chicharrónes, followed by the largest, tastiest scallop I’ve ever eaten, before getting to the main event: a pork belly bao burger that was utterly delicious. All enjoyed with champagne, naturally.

The next morning, I was up before the sun (which, again, is no great feat when you’re in Norway in November), and made my way downstairs for breakfast. I’m not normally a big fan of hotel breakfasts, and usually opt out in favor of more appealing local cafes and brunch spots, but the Bristol Hotel has quite a reputation for its decadent, sprawling AM buffet.

The reputation is well-deserved: the breakfast spread at the Bristol is out of this world. Each morning in Oslo, I enjoyed several courses (and several carafes of coffee) before starting my day.

If you’re staying at Oslo’s Bristol Hotel, don’t you dare skip out of breakfast

That first morning, I set out toward the pier, where I admired the fjord and the picturesque views. Originally, I had planned to start my day perusing the National Museum, but an unexpected power outage had delayed the museum’s opening. Rather than waste time lingering outside the entrance, I headed over to Akershus Fortress, a medieval castle that is believed to have been constructed back in the late 13th century.

With few other visitors present, and in the cool, soft light of the winter sun, wandering around Akershus felt soul-soothing.

Crisp, gorgeous winter vibes at Akershus

After spending an hour or so exploring Akershus and the nearby area, and eager to find a warmer way to spend the rest of the morning, I made my way to the MUNCH Museum. I hadn’t planned on visiting this museum—I’d never really considered myself much of an Edvard Munch fan—but it was an absolute highlight of the trip.

If all you know of Munch is ‘The Scream,’ let me tell you: his work is so much more than that. (And if that’s all you’re interested in, then the MUNCH Museum definitely isn’t for you: ‘The Scream’ can be found at the National Museum.)

I love museums that showcase real creativity and ingenuity in their curation strategy, and the MUNCH Museum takes visitors on a fascinating and emotional journey through the themes that dominated Munch’s work.

After perusing the museum’s many floors and exhibits (including collections of Munch’s art and his personal effects), I headed down to the café on the ground floor for a glass of rosé.

Generally speaking, I consider museum cafés to be overpriced and sub-par, but the café at the MUNCH Museum is so chic, I could have easily spent an entire day there (all I’d need is a notebook, a pen, and a good read)

Following another leisurely stroll around the water, I was ready for lunch, so I hopped over to Vaaghals, just a block or so away from the museum, where I enjoyed a three-course meal that featured modern takes on traditional Norwegian ingredients. It was phenomenal from start to finish, and the service was absolutely superb, highlighting the incredible warmth and kindness that seems to be such a trademark of Norwegian people.

After lunch, I found myself casually exploring the center of town (and walking off the meal I’d just eaten). I gradually made my way back to my hotel, where I rested up until the evening, when it was time to head over to the Oslo Opera House: always eager to catch a good classical performance, I had booked a ticket to see Norwegian violin virtuoso Eldbjørg Hemsing perform Shostakovich’s Violin Concerto No. 1. It was a mesmerizing performance—and Oslo’s Opera House is a gorgeous venue (not to mention an architectural masterpiece).

Oslo’s iconic opera house first opened back in 2008, and is now a prominent fixture of the city’s skyline, located on the waterfront, directly next door to the MUNCH Museum

The next morning, after another decadent breakfast at my hotel, I made my way back to the National Museum, where I spent the morning and early afternoon perusing the museum’s diverse collection of Norwegian and international artwork, before catching a train to Moss.

One of many highlights at Norway’s National Museum (other highlights included a series of statues by Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland; there’s an entire park in Oslo dedicated to his work, but I sadly didn’t have time to visit it during this speedy weekend trip… next time!)

Moss is a small, sleepy, somewhat industrial town on the water, and after a short walk through the city, I checked into one of the only hotels in town (just across the street from the concert venue).

That evening, I enjoyed a glass of wine in the lobby of the hotel before heading over to Parkteatret for the show.

Although I had minimal expectations, Moss Hotel & Apartments proved to be a perfectly quaint little place to crash for the night

It was an unforgettable evening. It’s always refreshing to discover that your favorite artist is as wonderful live as they are on their albums, and the atmosphere at the show was so warm and joyful.

Maria Mena’s music tends to lean toward emotional themes: her rough upbringing by an abusive and manipulative mother, her early struggles with an eating disorder, and the ups and downs of various relationships. She lays herself bare through her lyrics—and what ultimately comes through is a picture of someone who’s incredibly genuine, resilient, and optimistic against all odds.

Maria Mena performing ‘You Live and You Learn’ (from the album, ‘They never leave their wives, released in 2020)

Her latest album is a triumph, celebrating the fact that, after so much heartbreak, she’s finally found her soulmate—a kind of love that’s comfortable and content, without the drama or struggles she’d endured in the past (check out her song ‘Easy Love’ for further elaboration). But it also tackles more somber issues, like racism (Maria is half black, and while Norway is immensely progressive, it does still have its pockets of racist attitudes and behaviors) and death (the song ‘It Was Love’ was written for a Norwegian drama series, loosely based on the real-life story of the show’s director, who lost his wife to cancer; the song itself is an absolutely beautiful punch in the gut). Overall, however, Mena’s latest album exudes so much joy—mature, self-assured joy, the kind that comes with age and experience. This was the vibe she was giving off during the concert—and that the audience also exuded (99 percent of whom were, like me, women in their 30s and 40s).

And, unbeknownst to me at the time, she was in the early stages of pregnancy during the show (which she announced about a month and a half later). She was happy, she was glowing, she was fully in her element.

Performing the title track from her latest album, ‘And Then Came You,’ released in September 2023

After an incredible performance, I hopped across the street to a little kebab shop where I decided to order a kebab pizza to take back to my room. This bizarre food fusion was certainly an experience—although not something I’d be eager to have again (I ate one slice and binned the rest).

The following morning, I made my way back to Oslo, where I had just enough time for a glass of wine at the train station before I was off to the airport—and on my way to Milan for 36-ish hours of art, shopping, and a less-than-stellar Michelin-starred meal (sorry, Anima: I just wasn’t impressed).

Despite my stay being quite short, Norway impressed me on all levels. The people are unimaginably warm. The food scene in Oslo is exceptional. The art, the landscapes, the architecture… everything about the country makes me eager to go back very soon. (Just… preferably in warmer weather next time.) And, of course, the trip only further strengthened my belief that traveling for music (whether it’s your favorite pop singer or your favorite annual opera) is just downright good for the soul.